Gem Settings

De­pend­ing on the size and shape of a gem­stone, the de­sired look of a jew­elry piece, and the jew­el­er's artist­ic vis­ion, dif­fer­ent gem­stones re­quire dif­fer­ent set­tings. Some set­tings thor­oughly se­cure small stones to pre­vent them from be­com­ing loose or lost. Oth­ers are more open to fa­cil­it­ate shin­ing and light play of large stones. Closed and blind set­tings work only with opaque or very small stones. Large dia­monds, ru­bies, em­er­alds, and oth­er trans­par­ent stones are usu­ally set openly and lightly.

Bezel Setting

The most se­cure set­ting is the bezel set­ting. The stone is set in a met­al cav­ity and se­cured so that three of its sides are com­pletely hid­den with­in the mount­ing. Typ­ic­ally, this type of set­ting is used for small or non­trans­par­ent stones with flat bot­toms. In con­trast, gems like dia­monds and em­er­alds re­quire much more than just a single-sided present­a­tion to show their beauty and light play.

Bright Cut Bid Setting

If the bright cut bid set­ting is used, a gem­stone is se­cured with the help of small pro­jec­tions pressed out of the mount­ing met­al. Bright cut bid set­ting is of­ten util­ized when a cer­tain amount of small stones need to be set in rows. It is re­li­able enough to keep small stones se­cured while also look­ing very at­tract­ive with bright, shiny stones.

Pavé Setting

In the pavé set­ting, nu­mer­ous small stones are set closely in carved cav­it­ies and se­cured with lugs. Ac­tu­ally, pavé is a type of bright cut bid set­ting in which stones are set closely, re­sem­bling cobble­stones in "pave­ment."

Prong Setting

The prong set­ting grips a stone with cris­scross claws, smoothly and se­curely fasten­ing it to the mount­ing. The claws are usu­ally made from the ba­sic mount­ing ma­ter­i­al, but they also may be made sep­ar­ately from plain or round wire fastened to the mount­ing edges. Some­times, stones are prong set in or­der to hide their de­fects, like scratched or cracked fa­cets. Prong set­ting is also known as bas­ket set­ting.